Soil that’s coated with sterile other garden debris and leaf litter is an source for parasite diseases started. From the shaded garden, this situation spells double trouble.
The cool conditions are the perfect environment for the development of many fungus diseases. The gardener may prevent botrytis on azaleas blight on camellias, and problems such as mildew by keeping an even layer and removing the rest of the garden debris. Replace it with new material and it may help to remove the mulch each year, in case you have troubles. Cool places are also the preferred residence of snails and slugs. To keep these pests under control, minimize the places they hide and utilize snail and slug bait an outbreak occurs.
If despite your best efforts you repeatedly have problems with fungus diseases, use one of those fungicides available at your nursery. Before there is an issue conscious for the ideal control of several fungus diseases the treatment should be applied. On the other hand, other fungus diseases like mold can be controlled with insistent treatments either before or after they. Ask your community nursery or extension agent for information regarding time and the proper fungicide to employ it. Read and follow the label directions for each particular use.
You may know that any garden soil from the most heavy clay to the porous sand, benefits from regular additions of organic matter – compost, well-rotted manure, peat moss, chopped leaves, grass clippings, or any of the other widely accessible stuff. The extra time taken to prepare the grounds will pay off in healthier plants, when gardening in the shade. For all but the absolute best garden loam soils, you should add lots of organic matter before planting anything, from an individual azalea to a complete bed of lily-of-the-valley. If your soil is a rich loam, its quality will be enhanced even further.
To enrich the earth and enhance drainage and its aeration, spread a 2 to 4 inch layer of organic matter. Incorporate the substance into the soil to a depth of 6 inches. If the soil is not especially light or you’re planting a shrub that is big, work the ground several inches deeper. Plants with roots growing in the deep rich soil could have better total development than those plants which might be driven to compete fiercely in shallow, lean soil for nutrients and water.
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They still need a constant supply of nutrients, even though the metabolism of plants growing in the shade is slower than that of those growing in the sun. Monthly application of a relatively moderate fertilizer that is whole is an excellent practice when the plants are actively growing. A light fertilizer might be a liquid fish emulsion with a 5-1-1 formula, or a dry 5-10-5 fertilizer. (The numbers refer to the percentages of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium found in the fertilizer, and are consistently recorded in that order.
Acid loving plants can be given. These fertilizers are often labeled “azalea and camellia food,” “rhodod endron and azalea food,” or something similar.
The speeds and times of any fertilizer have been the subject of much research and should not be taken Too much for use can rapidly damage plants.