Pruning for More Light

There are two fundamental methods of pruning both of which are usually needed at some time in the life of a tree. Thinning means to take branches that are whole out, and produces a more open, graceful- looking specimen. Thinning is the most significant kind of pruning you can do if your aim is to permit more light to increase air circulation and to reach the earth. Before pruning any branches, analyze the shade pattern it casts at various times throughout the day and the tree. First remove any rubbing branches, or those who grow toward the middle of the tree as opposed to outward, when thinning a shade tree. Annually never remove more than a third of the branches. Trees react to serious pruning with a rush of vigorous development which can choke the tree and make it more heavy than ever. If you wish to prune greatly, do so in late June or July, when this vigorous response will not be more.

Selectively prune away before removing a major limb little branches if less shade is desired after these branches are removed. No matter what size branch you might be pruning, cut flush, and always prune at a junction of two branches .

Heading back involves removing the ends of the branches to create denser foliage and a more bushy plant.

There are some cases where the garden would take advantage of the entire removal of tree or a large shrub. The passing of time just makes the situation worse, if the plants were placed too close to begin with. Spend time imagining what the area will look like in its lack when deciding which plant has to go. This can be a careful first step that can take some of the worry from an irrevocable decision.

Deciduous Vines

Actinidia chinensis (Chinese Gooseberry, Kiwi Vine; Hardy to Zone 8 grows rapidly to 30 feet, forming woody stalks. This vine climbs by twining, and should be tied into a structure. The 2-inch creamy blooms, which appear in early summer, are aromatic and fairly showy. It’s valued because of its leaves and tasty fruit, both a male vine and a female are essential for fruiting. Plant in light shade to full sun, and protect from strong winds. When you prune in early spring Chinese gooseberry bears on last year’s wood, so make plenty of it.

Galen’ Trumpet Vine; Hardy to Zone 5) is a rapid grower that reaches a height of 30 feet. It attaches to masonry or wood, but should be held by wire or other support once it gets large. Salmon-reddish 21/2-inch flowers blossom in September. The coarse-textured, shiny leaves are compound, each leaflet. For best blooming, plant in full sunlight, It flowers on new growth. Many other members of the genus can function well. Check with the local greenhouse.

Clematis hybrids (Clematis; Hardiness changes) grow fast to 15 feet. These vines twine but frequently need tying. They sport dramatic summer blossoms to 6 inches wide. The leaves are small, their stems twining about supports. Most hybrids bloom on the current season’s development, so prune in early spring. Clematis often appears twiggy, spindly, and dead in the wintertime. This is not a great alternative to cover large regions. Cool, rich, somewhat alkaline soil is required by its roots. Plant deep, with the roots in protection and the top in light shade to full sunlight.

Gourds are annuals. When the earth has warmed plant seeds 18 inches apart in full sun. The vines climb by tendrils. To 20 or 30 feet, vines grow fast with sufficient summer heat over several months and bear nicely. Most have large, luxuriant leaves and yellow flowers. Gourds change significantly in size, color, contour, and texture. Plant in full sunlight, and protect them.

The 5-inch blooms (various colours) appear from late spring to frost. The leaves are dark green and heart shaped. Plant in full sun.

Parthenocissus quinquefolia (Virginia Creeper; Hardy to Zone 4), after a slow start, grows quickly to 50 feet. It scales by tendril “suckers” that attach to any surface. Fruit and flowers are not conspicuous. This vine is valued for its five-sectioned leaves, which develop to bright green in summer and spring, 6 inches wide, and brilliant red in fall. Plant in light shade to full sunlight. Its relative, Partbenocissus tricuspidata (Boston Ivy; Hardy to Zone 5), is exactly the same in virtually every respect except that its leaves aren’t lobed. .

Polygonum aubertii (Silverlace Vine; Hardy to Zone 5) grows fast to 30 feet or more, climbing by twining stems. The flowers are whitish, in compact, significant bunches, from spring into fall. These are its great advantage. The leaves are heart shaped, light green, to 2 inches. Plant in full sun. This vine can be pruned in the autumn yearly, to the ground. That is an exceedingly rough, carefree,heat-tolerant plant that grows in almost any land.

Roses must be tied securely or woven into a structure that is supporting. They need full sun, good soil, air flow, and often the same spraying that bush roses want. Plant in full sunlight. Thin and prune out dead wood and crossing branches early in springtime.

Some are mainly ornamental, while wine and table grapes are produced by others. Their stems are woody and not small, development fast to varying. Flowers are inconspicuous, but the big, roundish, lobed leaves are consistently lovely. Plant in full sun. Prune heavily in spring for fruiting. To contour, prune lightly for ornamental use. Check with your nursery or county agent for the best varieties for the place.

Wisteria floribunda (Japanese Wisteria; Hardy to Zone 5), once created, scales quickly to 25 or 30 feet by twining. The stems become hefty and woody with age. Fragrant blue violet flowers hang in bunches 12 to 40 inches in length. White, rose types are also available, and purple. The 16-inch leaves, broken up into many leaflets, turn yellow in autumn. Plant in full sunlight. Prune and thin immediately after flowering, or in winter. By supplementing fertilizer in spring with superphosphate encourage blooming,. This species is hardier than W. sinensis (Chinese Wisteria), which has shorter, more compact flower clusters.